Choosing the right Interfacing For Your Project

A Description of Interfacing Types &  How to use them

Maeve Fanning

I had a really good question in our Facebook Group this week about interfacing.

Joanna Asked:

I just listened to the latest episode of Love To Sew which is all about interfacing and apparently I’ve been using the wrong stuff all along 😱 So in spirit of sustainability and giving my handmade clothes more lifespan I would like to invest in some good quality interfacing. In the show they reference a lot of brands that aren’t necessarily available in this neck of the woods, so question to Maeve for recommendations of good quality, general use interfacing that is available in your shop.

I listened to the episode Joanna mentions as these ladies always have the best info and would recommend you listen to it to. They have lots of resources listed but most relate to North American Brands and suppliers.

I will list the types I have in stock and what I use them for.

BIAS TAPE

SECURING AND FINISHING OF ALL ROUNDED AND DIAGONAL EDGES

Flexible iron-on, grain-reinforced bias binding for finishing all rounded and diagonal edges. Use it around necklines and armholes to stabilise and prevent distortion. Also use in shoulder seams for reinforcement.

 

Fabrics:

all fabrics

Product benefits:

  • Securing and finishing of all rounded and diagonal edges
  • Very versatile: Clothing, e.g. tops, T-Shirts, blouses, waistcoats, dresses, home decor, e.g. table cloths, swags
  • Chain stitch prevents stretching of the edge
  • Flat, flexible support edging

Description:

  1. The 12 mm Bias Tape is stitched at 4/8 mm. When fusing, position the 8 mm side of the tape to fabric edge. Sew behind the row of top stitching. The top stitched tape prevents stretching of edges.
  2. Press on firmly, dry heat.

FUSIBLE INTERLINING H 609

LIGHTWEIGHT AND BI-ELASTIC INTERLINING 

Fusible knit interlining, made out of fine Polyamide yarn with a very soft and elegant hand feel. As discussed on the Love to Sew Podcast this is used for any fine drapey fabric as well as knits and jerseys. Very versatile – use it on silk, lightweight cottons, rayons/viscose, tencel, chiffon etc.

Fabrics:

Elastic fabrics and more.

Product benefits:

  • the special construction grants a very soft and elegant hand feel
  • due to its extreme elasticity in warp and weft direction, it is an ideal interlining for large and small part fusing
  • the excellent adhesive coating grants easy application by hand iron
  • outstanding adhesion after many cycles of care treatment

Description:

  1. Like all interfacing made by Vlieseline, the interfacing is always cut in a lengthwise direction, and thereby follows the grain of the fabric.
  2. Place the interfacing with the fitted side on the left side of the fabric. Press each area for about 10 seconds.
  3. Allow the pieces to cool flat for about 30 minutes, so that the adhesive can set properly.

 

FUSIBLE INTERLINING F 220

Lightweight interlining for small parts of clothing, also for textile craftwork. This is the papery type of interfacing made of 50% viscose and 50% polyester.

 

Fabrics:

Lightweight fabrics such as cotton

Product benefits:

  • simple to iron-on
  • very comfortable
  • also washable at higher temperatures

Description:

    1. Place the interfacing with the coated side on the wrong side of the fabric. Cover the entire area with a damp cloth.
    2. Press each area for about 12 seconds, being careful not to move the iron.

    Iron setting: Wool / cotton.

    1. Allow the pieces to cool flat for about 20 minutes, so that the adhesive can set properly.

     

    FUSIBLE INTERLINING H 250

    Firm, stable interlining for shaped cuffs, shaped belts and for textile craftwork. Guarantees durable shape. This is also the papery type but thicker than the F220.

    Fabrics:

    Lightweight to mediumweight fabrics such as cotton

    Product benefits:

    • simple to apply
    • long lasting shape
    • also washable at higher temperatures

    Description:

      1. Place the interfacing with the coated side on the wrong side of the fabric.
      2. Then using dry heat glide the iron firmly 5-6 times very slowly over each area of the insert, so that each area receives approx. 8 seconds of heat.

      Iron setting: Wool.

      1. Allow the pieces to cool flat for about 20 minutes, so that the adhesive can set properly.

      WOVEN INTERLINING

      WOVEN INTERLINING G 700

      Versatile woven interlining for SMALL PARTS of blouses and shirts. 100% Cotton  – this is a better quality interfacing  than the F220 and H250 and will give a better finish on your garments and last longer.

      Fabrics:

      Lightweight to mediumweight fabrics

      Product benefits:

      • washable in temperatures up to 60 °C
      • retains shape

      Description:

        1. Like all interfacings made by Vilene, the interfacing is always cut in a lengthwise direction, and thereby follows the grain of the fabric.
        2. Place the interfacing with the coated side on the wrong side of the fabric. Cover with a damp cloth and press each area for about 12 seconds, without moving the iron.

        Iron setting: Cotton.

        1. Allow the pieces to cool flat for about 30 minutes, so that the adhesive can set properly.

        WOVEN INTERLINING G 740

        MEDIUMWEIGHT, SLIGHTLY BRUSHED COTTON INTERLINING

        Mediumweight, slightly brushed cotton interlining for front parts of jackets, coats etc. as well as for small parts. 65% Cotton 35% Modal – this is a better quality interfacing  than the F220 and H250 and will give a better finish on your garments and last longer.

        Fabrics:

        Mediumweight to heavy fabrics

        Product benefits:

        • retains shape perfectly

        Description:

          1. Like all interfacings made by Vilene, the interfacing is always cut in a lengthwise direction, and thereby follows the grain of the fabric.
          2. Place the interfacing with the coated side on the wrong side of the fabric. Cover with a damp cloth and press each area for about 12 seconds, without moving the iron.

          Iron setting: Cotton

          1. Allow the pieces to cool flat for about 30 minutes, so that the adhesive can set properly.

          Stayflex Interlining/ Interfacing for woven fabrics – Tailoring & Coats

          Black interlining / interfacing. 80% viscose, 20% polyester. Use it to interline a coat or jacket.

          This interfacing is used in tailoring and reinforcing garments such as coats and jackets. It provides structure to these garments while maintaining the drape of the fabric.

          It is soft / fleecy to touch and constructed with the texture as seen on the picture. 

          • Place the interfacing with the coated side on the wrong side of the fabric. Cover with a damp cloth and press each area for about 12 seconds, without moving the iron. Iron setting: Cotton
          • Allow the pieces to cool flat for about 30 minutes, so that the adhesive can set properly.

          Join our sewing community

          We have a great active Facebook group where the members post photos of finished projects they have made from our fabrics to inspire your creativity, you can ask questions and someone else out there will have the answer if I don’t. Its a lovely safe environment to chat about sewing, patterns and fabric recommendations even what sewing machine to buy or where to get it serviced.

          Have a lovely weekend – hope you get some sewing done

          Maeve

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